For those who have just started following the blog, this is the 7th and the last post about biking along the Lofoten Archipelago that me and my husband accomplished last summer. Please check the previous articles (linked below) to learn more about our little adventure. If you have any questions, please write a comment here or contact us via our FB page facebook.com/thenilsensway
Lofoten! How did we get the idea..
The best of the best. We are in Lofoten
Stamsund
We have just finished biking around Gimsoy. At this point we have two roads we can choose between. One stretches along the northern side of the archipelago and the other goes obviously on the southern side. We choose the southern route which will take us all the way to Stamsund, further to Balstad where we should be able to take a little boat accross the fjord to a little fishing village by the name Nusfjord. Futhermore we are desperate for food and the closest shop is in Stamsund.
Besides the food problem, the weather condition is the second biggest issue. The wind is unbelievably cold and very, very strong. We have already made a phone call to the boats owners to transport us to Nusfjord, in order to reserve the places for both of us and our bikes (if you plan to take the boat you should definitely book it ahead of time since there are only 15 spots available. I will tell you more about it in my next post that will be dedicated to Lofoten guide). However already half way there we realize that there is no way that we will be able to get to Balstad on time, of course due to harsh weather conditions. We call again to the boat service in order to postpone the trip across the fjord. We can relax now.
We get to Stamsund by the evening. On the way we stop at a restaurant by the road. Hungry and cold like never before we order two big meals that consists of a huge pizza, an even bigger hamburger and a coke. Usually we don’t eat such heavy meals and drink soft drinks but this time we don’t even feel guilty to get all the extra sugar. Delicious. I guess everything is delicious when you are hungry.
In Stamsund, by the main road, on the left side we spot a hostel, an old yellow building. The owner is nice and funny and the place is inexpensive. We are alone in the room even thought there are 5 beds in it. With the kitchen next door all we have to do is to get some calories and get ready for soft and warm night. I get up at 2 am, go to a toilet, look at the mirror and cannot believe my eyes. Within couple of hours my lips have definitely dobled in size, it looks like I got Botox. The swollen lips must be due to the sun exposure that we have been experiencing for the last 3 days. Botox for free, gratis trail 🙂 Thank you but no thank you 🙂
Leknes
It is sunny but cold. The arctic wind doesn’t give up. The road Stamsund – Leknes is very tricky, beautiful but tricky. The first half goes up the hill while the second is downhill. First we sweat so we freeze. There are not enough cloths in our backpack to make me warm. In town we stop at the tourist office. I like collecting T-shirts from places I visit and tourist offices are the perfect places to do so. This time however I get a down jacket and put it on immediately. What a relief. Warm at last! O on the other hand buys a red pillow to have something softer on his bikeseat.
Balstad
In Lofoten there are two underwater tunnels. We have already had the pleasure to bike through the first one which was quite scary. The second is situated between Leknes and Nusfjord/Ramberg. However we would like to avoid it. Therefore we take the boat from Balstad to Nusfjord.
Balstad is a nice little town with one camping place. Here for the first time since we came, we decide to go fishing. O is in charge. He catches one fish which we decide to eat for breakfast. Unfortunately a local cat is faster and gets a lovely and free meal.
Nusfjord
The village is honestly so beautiful and so charming. It is an authentic and one of the very few, well-preserved fishing villages in Lofoten. The buildings here date back to the late 1800s and early 1900s. In the past the place must have been a busy harbour. These days Nusfjord is basically a tourist attraction where among other things the Cod Liver Refinery, the Fish Buying Station can be found. Spending a nigh here must be an experience in it self. Who wouldn’t like to wake up to the sound of waves breaking agains rocks and wooden houses, squealing seagulls and the smell of ocean?
There are few places in Lofoten where tourist can learn about fishing and the harsh conditions the fisherman in the past had to work in. The museum of the Cod Liver Rafinery in Nusfjord is one of them. Here you can watch a short film presenting the time where human muscles were the only engine available. I actually cried when I watched this film. It’s so real, honest and simple in a very good way. It presents how difficult life was at that time and how great people were together, helping each other. Miss that so much these days.
Nusfjord isn’t big. Its perfect location in scenic surroundings encircled by steep mountains rising from the sea gives this place a very special charm. Here, one can experience the serenity and tranquillity.
Apart from all the beautiful and natural surroundings, one building is worth mentioning. I am thinking about the bakery. I am not sure if the bakery has even the name, it’s just The Bakery in Nusfjord.
Ramberg
It is maybe 15 km that parts Nusfjord and Ramberg. The road is very pleasant because it’s flatish, maybe except the first 3, 4 km after Nusfjord where we have to bike up the hill. Ramberg would be the second place to watch the Midnight Sun since it is situated on the northern side of the archipelago.
Here you can find many possibilities to camp. We decide to put out our tent on the camping place in Ramberg which is situated just by the most famous beach that is shown in all tourist brochures about Lofoten. We have to register in the accommodation book or whatever that book is called. I am registering and just by accident I look above my name and see a guy’s name and his date of birth which is also my date of birth which is the 8th of March. How coincidental is that. Or maybe it isn’t coinsidance, is it? Maybe the Universe is trying to tell me something? I don’t know who the guy is, I don’t know what he looks like, all I know is that he is 70 years old. I decide to mention this to the owner of the camping. She smiles to me and says, that’s obviously a good sign, a good luck sign 🙂 Indeed the luck is definitely on our side 🙂
Our tent is one of the first counting from the beach. The routine that we developed so far on the trip is simple and it looks like that: putting out the tent, resting, eating, taking shower (or not), eating, resting, going for a walk, resting, eating, sleeping. This time we prepare a salmon soup. Afterword we rest by the tent looking at the ocean, go for a walk along the beach, sleep comfortably and get up at 00.30 to watch the lowest Sun. Oh, how much I love to live this kind of life. There is nothing better than sleeping anywhere you wish, resting on the grass, eating straight from a travel stove, watching sunrises and sunsets from your tent.
Reine
Our next destination is Reine. We are biking on E10 which is the main road here.The road Ramberg-Reine is hilly, as it is normal here. The weather is sunny and warm. I can feel that we are getting closer to the end of our journey. It is a sad thing. Of course on the one hand I feel happy that we have made it but on the other hand I feel so sad that everything will end in a few days. The trip has turned out to be the greatest thing I have done in my life so far.
Reine is actually a peninsula. However getting there you must cross a few islands: Hamnøy, Sakristøy. The archipelago itself consist of the following islands: Hinnøya, Austvågøy, Gimsøy, Vestvågøy, Flakstadøya and Moskenesøya. The last one is the one that the most photographs in the tourists guides about Lofoten come from, so I heard. It doesn’t surprise me. It is absolutely breathtaking here.
We get to Reine in the afternoon. For those who plan a biking trip to Lofoten, there are no camping places in Reine. The closest campground is in Moskenes, around 8 km away from Reine. We want to overnight in Reine. We wish to stay indoors and considere renting a rorbu. It’s expensive but we are desperate. Unfortunately everything is occupied. We really struggle to figure out where to spend the night here. Eventually O finds an old road, off the main road. The spot is somehow secluded but also dangerous because of possible falling stones since we stay just at the bottom of the vertical rocky wall. We make thought the night. I dream about my friend whom I like a lot. For me it is always a great sign.
It is sunny and warm. We eat breakfast in Reine on a bench admiring Reinebringen which we consider to climb. However it doesn’t happen for us this time. Instead we decide to take a boat trip on the Reinefjoden. It takes about 3 hours. Afterwords we walk around Reine, eat some dinner and bike further to Moskenes.
Moskenes and Å
Moskenes is a small place with one campground. Here the ferries to Bodø, Værøy, and Røst start their voyage.
It is just 4 km left for us on this journey. So far we have biked about 400 km. The road which has been leading us for the past two weeks, stops here, surrounded by majestic rocks.
Everything seems so insignificant right now as this amazing trip is about to come to an end. I am really sad!!! Oslo feels like miles away. However there is still one place we ought to visit, Å. Judging by the name, nobody would guesse but it is acually a town. It is also the last letter in the Norwegian aphabet. Coincidence? Overall Lofoten is a very touristic place, however wild places, almost untouched by the humans, can also be found here. In Å anyone can eat in the finest restaurants or bars. Despite the location and the size, this little town can offer a lot to everyone who come all the way here. First of all the views here are to die for! Second of all the Dry Fish Museum which is run by the most passionate man, is very educational. Third of all, you must definitely visit the bakery, the cinnamon rolls are absolutely delicious!
The last night we spend fishing and relaxing. The next day is our last day here, in this Arctic paradise. In some hours, my happy place will disappear behind the waves of the powerful Vestfjoden. I get very emotional. Tears start filling up my eyes.
Our ferry leavs the harbor in Moskenes at 10.30. A few hours later we get to Bodø, where we treat ourselves with the most beautiful hotel there is, Scandic Hotel. There is a little bit of time left to bike around town which we obviously do.
I wake up with the worst feeling which I absolutely hate every time it visits my body, the dizziness. I am not even able to walk, I have to crawl on the flour in our beautiful room. I worry a little how I will survive the flight but somehow I do.
We are at the airport in Bodø.
We are in Oslo.
We are at home-we are so far away from Lofoten!
It would take me a month to get back to the reality in the Norwegian capital.
The Nilsens Way 